Iris van Herpen’s exploration of living matter represents a profound paradigm shift in avant-garde fashion: moving from constructing a garment to cultivating a living system. Her work treats the human body not merely as a hanger for static fabric, but as a biological host and a co-creative partner.

Her most legendary breakthrough in this realm is The Living Look from her July 2025 Sympoiesis collection, which directly paved the way for her later experiments with plasma and energy.

1. The Living Look: 125 Million Bioluminescent Algae (2025)

For the opening look of her Sympoiesis collection, Van Herpen collaborated with London-based bio-designer Chris Bellamy and biophysicists from the University of Amsterdam Fluid Lab. Together, they engineered a first-of-its-kind "breathing" couture gown inhabited by 125 million living micro-algae (Pyrocystis lunula).

• The Science of the Skin: Pyrocystis lunula are marine single-celled organisms with a distinct crescent moon shape. In the ocean, they emit a natural blue flash of light when physically disturbed as a defense mechanism (known as the "burglar alarm" effect).

• The Gel Matrix Engineering: The team spent months culturing the algae in custom seawater baths. To take them out of the water and onto the runway, they developed a specialized, transparent structural nutrient gel. The living algae were encapsulated inside this matrix across a multi-step molding process, forming a translucent, protective membrane that allowed light and air to pass through while shielding the organisms from dehydration or contamination. This membrane was then carefully hand-sewn onto delicate Japanese air fabric.

• Circadian Rhythm Inversion: Because these algae naturally recharge their chemical enzymes during the day and glow only at night, the design team had to artificially invert the algae's internal biological clocks in the lab. They kept the organisms in complete darkness during the daytime and under intense deep-ocean simulated lights at night, ensuring they would be "awake" and responsive under the daytime runway spotlights.

• Fashion as an Act of Care: Worn by model Stella Maxwell, the dress actively lit up with streaks of biological blue light in direct response to her movement, breathing, and touch. Because the garment was a literal living ecosystem, it required continuous environmental maintenance—keeping it strictly between $16\text{--}24^\circ\text{C}$ and feeding it light, blurring the line between clothing design and marine biology.

2. Historical Steps Toward Biomorphism

While The Living Look was her first garment containing active, living cells, Van Herpen has spent over a decade translating the invisible geometries of microbiology into structural design:

The Micro Collection (Spring/Summer 2012)

Long before working directly with living tissue, Van Herpen focused on bringing the hidden world of microorganisms into plain sight. Inspired by the scanning electron microscope (SEM) photography of science photographer Steve Gschmeissner, she collaborated with architects and material scientists to translate the structures of cells, scales, tentacles, and ciliate organisms into wearable architecture. This collection debuted early, boundary-pushing 3D-printed pieces that mimicked armored biological walls and cellular cross-sections, forcing a reflection on the transition from dead matter to a living organism.

Meta Morphism: Posthuman Realities (Fall/Winter 2022)

Marking the 15th anniversary of her Maison, this collection utilized Ovid's classic Metamorphoses to explore "the depths of the body in posthuman realities." Rather than just using plant-based imagery as a flat pattern, she worked alongside sculptor Casey Curran to create the iconic "Glitched Growth" finale dress. The garment combined skeletal structures with kinetic plant forms that physically grew, shifted, and interlocked across the body, exploring how digital and physical biological systems are beginning to fuse.

By treating garments as adaptive, responsive membranes, Iris van Herpen's bio-couture serves as an inspiring blueprint for fields far beyond fashion—including parametric architecture, responsive facade design, and material science—proving that our built environments can learn to breathe, react, and coexist with natural ecosystems.

Explore the official Iris van Herpen Sympoiesis Runway Show to see how the studio crafts these ethereal, boundary-pushing biomorphic collections on the runway.